As I sit here and write my last blog from Africa, on my last day in Ghana, I am filled with mixed emotions and don’t even know where to begin or what to write about. There is no doubt I am beyond excited to go home—to be around anything familiar, to not be an “Obruni” anymore, to know how to appropriately function in society, to eat good food (not white rice for a long, long time), to see my momma, sister, nana, boyfriend and all of my family, to see my dear friends in New York and Texas—it’s definitely time.
I have been moved and blessed by these four months. I have learned things about myself and about humanity that I will carry with me forever. I have met and become close friends with some of the kindest people in the world. I have battled everything from the Ghanaian health care system, the maltreatment of women, to the lack of development in the nation. I have been to some of the most beautiful places (Winneba, Tamale) I’ve ever seen, and had some of the wildest experiences I’ve ever had (remember the 1 Cedi hostel in Togo? Or the journey to Green Turtle Lodge?). I have traveled three African countries—Togo, Morocco, and Ghana, and none of these journeys were without tough moments that ended up being hilarious ones. I have learned that “Africa” is not at all what I expected. I have peed on concrete slabs in front of lots of people. I have learned to love Makola market (a true example of growth!). I have bought more fabric than I can even wrap my mind around (Gillian can attest to my utter anxiety in packing it all). I have refused more marriage proposals than you can imagine. I have been treated both like royalty and like the scum of the earth because of my skin color. I have taken 126 malaria pills, and never missed a day(!). I have written 66 (now 67) blogs. I have ridden in tro-tros that my mom would’ve had a heart attack if she’d seen me in. I’ve bartered for hundreds of taxis. I have not eaten enough Fan Ice (must find a way to get this back to the states!). I have made local friends in every city I’ve been to. I have cried more than I ever thought I would. I have laughed more than I ever thought I would. I have become used to, and sometimes comforted by, power outages and water shortages. I have lived in Labone, one of the nicest neighborhoods in all of Ghana. I have been to the post office once a week, every week since I’ve been here. I have received letters from my mom, Nana, Sarah, Eric, Kala, Amanda, Rachel, Rebecca and Carley. I have cherished these letters. I have acquired a new tan, a new wardrobe, and a new outlook on life. I have challenged myself to think deeper about issues like development. I have become more patient with myself and with others. I have learned to slowwww downnnn. All in all, I have had the most incredible, rewarding, adventurous, scary, beautiful, fun, trying, and perfect study abroad experience. In Ghana. In Africa.
So now for the letters, with which I will try to be brief, but which deserve to be said, on the internet, for everyone to read.
Dear Solomon’s Girls,
Thank you for every single day providing a safe haven for one another to be themselves. Thank you for nurturing each other, and me, and always finding a way to have fun. Thank you for being the most eclectic, unlikeliest of people to live in a house together, but for proving that this “Real World: Ghana house” was real, and wonderful. Thanks for doing your dishes (ode to Julia) and for doing life with me. Emma, Anika, Marykate, Marika, Monica, Crystal, Tanesha, Gillian, Marta, Julia, Katie, Victoria, Stephannie, Helene, Leigh, Naa, and Julia, you girls are awesome and I love you all.
Dear Gillian,
I know you’re going to read this today anyway, since that’s what we do, but I want you to know what an impact you’ve had in my life these last four months. I never expected that we would become such great friends, or that we would go through hospitals, tro-tros, multiple countries, countless cries and laughs, Mamma Mia (I’ll leave it at that), some of our lowest and highest moments, bike rides, prayer, and fellowship together. You are as beautiful inside as you are out, and I am honored to have gotten to share an oversized room and undersized food supply with you for the last four months.
Dear Anyone-Who-Ever-Wrote-Me-A-Letter,
Thank you. Thank you for brightening my day and pissing off dear Debby, whom I harassed for the mail every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Thanks for reminding me that even when I’m half-way around the world, people are still thinking about me and I am still part of my loved ones’ lives.
Dear Family and Friends,
Thanks for being patient with me, and for graciously encouraging me to go off on this adventure. Thank you for trusting me and for reminding me day in and day out that I need to wear bug spray, but more importantly, that I need to do what I, Elizabeth Shelby, want to do. Thanks for never hindering me from becoming who I am still in the process of becoming, and thank you for letting me go (even for just four months). Thanks for Skyping with me, for emailing with me, for IMing with me, for spending ridiculous amounts of money texting and calling me (and vice versa!), and for reading this little blog.
And finally…Dear Readers-of-this-Blog,
Thanks for coming with me on this journey. I’m glad to have shared it all with you. I hope you find something else just as compelling to read daily now! Just kidding. But seriously, I’ll miss writing it just as much as you’ll miss reading it.
Alright, I suppose I better close this computer up and pack it away—we leave in an hour and a half or so, and our plane leaves in 5 hours. If you read this at anytime within the next day, please send prayers of safety towards the sky, as Gillian and I will be on our way back to the states, EEEEK! We should get into New York on Saturday at 11 am NY time, so 10 am Texas time. I love you all and can’t wait to see you soon!!!
LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE!
Friday, May 08, 2009
Wednesday, May 06, 2009
QUICK post
i have a test tomorrow which i need to keep studying for, so i'm just writing a quick post to show you a picture of marjorie and her two girls, janette (2) and tina (5). i stopped by her place today to pick up one of the last two things being made. tomorrow i'll have to say goodbye, which will be sad. less than 48 hours people, crazy. emma and leigh left today and it was pretty emotional for everyone. just hope these two days go by fast and slow all at once. anyway, gotta go study- wish me luck on this test!
love love love
love love love
Monday, May 04, 2009
my ghanaian experience: a photo blog
As my time in Ghana is coming to a close, I thought it'd be nice to post pictures of the people and things I see on a daily basis, the people and places who have made this NYU-in-Ghana experience so wonderful.
These are the girls of Solomon's Lodge. My Ghanaian family. Each girl has made this experience something special and fun. We've helped each other laugh through the terrible times, and have celebrated communally through the great times. These are some of the funniest, greatest, most intelligent and open-minded people I've ever gotten the chance to meet. I am so thankful I am able to call each of these girls my friend.
This is our day guard, Danny, who every day from 6 am to 6 pm watches over our house and protects us. He is employed by g4s, a local security company. this man always greets us with a friendly "You are welcome" when we enter Solomon's, and a "me combra" (meaning "come back soon") when we leave. There's not one person in Solomon's who hasn't been touched or blessed by Danny's hard work and smiling face every, single day.
This is the street Solomon's is on.
The man cutting hair is Issac. We pass his stand every day on our way to the Academic Center.
Part of the road on the walk to the Academic Center. 
This is First Choice, the local store where we buy everything from sache' water to phone credit to snacks for the schools I taught at. Those signs in the front (the pink and yellow ones) are to let customers know they sell phone credit for both Zain and MTN users (the equivalent of, say, Verizon and ATT). Those red cases are crates and crates of empty class bottles, which Ghanaians recycle. In fact, if you were to buy a glass-bottled drink at First Choice, or anywhere else, you would have to consume the entire thing and give the bottle back before you could leave.
Ghanaian children love to pose for pictures. This was taken along the road on the way to the Academic Center. Painted on the white wall are two Ghanaian flags.
This is one of the shops on the way to the Academic Center. As I've mentioned before, many many shops have titles like this one, "King Majesty Hair Cut." In front is a typical-looking taxi (notice the religious writing on the back windshield? This is also common.).
This is Uncle Sammy, one of our two drivers (both are named Sammy!). One of the things we love and will remember most about him is how he tries to mimic an American voice. Whenever we leave the van and say "bye Sammy!" in our relatively high-pitched voices, he will raise his voice several octaves to try to match ours. He's Solomon's primary driver to and from dinner.
This is "Young" Sammy, as we call him. He's also a day driver for NYU, and is usually the one who would take me and Marykate to Legon on Mondays.
This is the Academic Center. It was once a house that NYU transformed into a building with several classrooms, a conference room, a computer area, and a kitchen. This is where I take three of my four classes. The walk from Solomon's to the Academic Center is about 7 minutes.
This is Uncle Tego!!! He, like Danny, works from 6 am to 6 pm, 6 days a week. He guards the Academic Center. Every single morning he greets me with a friendly "Queen Elizabeth," in his deep, Uncle Tego voice. He has all 40 something students' names, as he sees them day in and day out walking into the Academic Center. He says each student's name in a very distinct way. I'll have to say my name like he does for you in person.
This is the porch area of the Academic Center, where much of our intense orientation week was held. Occasionally we have classes out here under that veranda (for instance, this is where our televi class and our dress-up class were). Additionally, all of our workshops, for instance, "Adjusting to Ghana," were held out here.
This is The Almond Tree. I have pictures of me with my favorite woman who works there, but have decided against posting, just for her privacy. I will gladly show them to you when I get home, though! She is the woman who has been making table runners and table cloths for some of you!
This isn't such a great picture, but it was taken out of a taxi window. This is Independence Square, built to commemorate Ghana's independence in 1957. I'm sure I've already said this in a post, but Ghana was the first African colony to gain independence. 
This is another shot of Independence Square. The ocean is in the background, and this is where events such as parades and large social festivals often take place.
Solomon's Lodge:
These are the girls of Solomon's Lodge. My Ghanaian family. Each girl has made this experience something special and fun. We've helped each other laugh through the terrible times, and have celebrated communally through the great times. These are some of the funniest, greatest, most intelligent and open-minded people I've ever gotten the chance to meet. I am so thankful I am able to call each of these girls my friend.
This is our day guard, Danny, who every day from 6 am to 6 pm watches over our house and protects us. He is employed by g4s, a local security company. this man always greets us with a friendly "You are welcome" when we enter Solomon's, and a "me combra" (meaning "come back soon") when we leave. There's not one person in Solomon's who hasn't been touched or blessed by Danny's hard work and smiling face every, single day. 
This is the street Solomon's is on.
The man cutting hair is Issac. We pass his stand every day on our way to the Academic Center.
Part of the road on the walk to the Academic Center. 
This is First Choice, the local store where we buy everything from sache' water to phone credit to snacks for the schools I taught at. Those signs in the front (the pink and yellow ones) are to let customers know they sell phone credit for both Zain and MTN users (the equivalent of, say, Verizon and ATT). Those red cases are crates and crates of empty class bottles, which Ghanaians recycle. In fact, if you were to buy a glass-bottled drink at First Choice, or anywhere else, you would have to consume the entire thing and give the bottle back before you could leave.
Ghanaian children love to pose for pictures. This was taken along the road on the way to the Academic Center. Painted on the white wall are two Ghanaian flags.
This is one of the shops on the way to the Academic Center. As I've mentioned before, many many shops have titles like this one, "King Majesty Hair Cut." In front is a typical-looking taxi (notice the religious writing on the back windshield? This is also common.).
This is Uncle Sammy, one of our two drivers (both are named Sammy!). One of the things we love and will remember most about him is how he tries to mimic an American voice. Whenever we leave the van and say "bye Sammy!" in our relatively high-pitched voices, he will raise his voice several octaves to try to match ours. He's Solomon's primary driver to and from dinner.
This is "Young" Sammy, as we call him. He's also a day driver for NYU, and is usually the one who would take me and Marykate to Legon on Mondays.The Academic Center:
This is the Academic Center. It was once a house that NYU transformed into a building with several classrooms, a conference room, a computer area, and a kitchen. This is where I take three of my four classes. The walk from Solomon's to the Academic Center is about 7 minutes.
This is Uncle Tego!!! He, like Danny, works from 6 am to 6 pm, 6 days a week. He guards the Academic Center. Every single morning he greets me with a friendly "Queen Elizabeth," in his deep, Uncle Tego voice. He has all 40 something students' names, as he sees them day in and day out walking into the Academic Center. He says each student's name in a very distinct way. I'll have to say my name like he does for you in person.
This is the porch area of the Academic Center, where much of our intense orientation week was held. Occasionally we have classes out here under that veranda (for instance, this is where our televi class and our dress-up class were). Additionally, all of our workshops, for instance, "Adjusting to Ghana," were held out here.West Africa AIDS Foundation, WAAF:
This is WAAF. While I don't see it every day, I did see it plenty this semester. The white building in the back of the shot is the Health Care Center, where people are tested and treated for all sorts of diseases, not just HIV. The tannish building on the left is the Almond Tree, where the women who make things to sell and get money for their medicines are stationed.
This is WAAF. While I don't see it every day, I did see it plenty this semester. The white building in the back of the shot is the Health Care Center, where people are tested and treated for all sorts of diseases, not just HIV. The tannish building on the left is the Almond Tree, where the women who make things to sell and get money for their medicines are stationed.
This is The Almond Tree. I have pictures of me with my favorite woman who works there, but have decided against posting, just for her privacy. I will gladly show them to you when I get home, though! She is the woman who has been making table runners and table cloths for some of you!Miscellaneous:
This isn't such a great picture, but it was taken out of a taxi window. This is Independence Square, built to commemorate Ghana's independence in 1957. I'm sure I've already said this in a post, but Ghana was the first African colony to gain independence. 
This is another shot of Independence Square. The ocean is in the background, and this is where events such as parades and large social festivals often take place.So these are the pictures I have so far. Tomorrow I'm going to try to take pictures of some more of the staff, as well as of Marjorie and her shop. I hope you've enjoyed looking through them as much as I've enjoyed putting this blog together (and living these pictures).
love love love
Sunday, May 03, 2009
our final weekend
getting really tired of my blog formatting the way it has been...sorry, again, for the weird spacing.
*i didn't intend for this picture to turn out the way it did, but it's really cool!
*ahh! i can't believe we've almost concluded our final weekend in ghana. this time next week i'll be resting comfortably in jon's awesome apartment, followed by visiting my cousin in brooklyn and having a much needed dinner with charlie. can't believe it. there are so many things i want to say and blog about, so many reflections, etc. perhaps soon there will be a blog with those types of sentiments, but for now, i'll just update you on what we did this weekend!
*friday i spent writing my final paper of the semester! it's good to have that over with, and now i just need to focus on my tests that are on thursday and friday. the day was spent doing nothing, really, and we went to bed early because we had an early morning saturday.
*saturday started at 4:30 am, because nyu in ghana loves leave for their field trips as early as humanly possible. anyway, the bus picked us up at 5 to go to WLI FALLS, pronounced wee-lee falls. the four hour bus ride proved well worth it, as we we got there around 10 or so. we had to hike for 45 minutes to the actual falls, but it wasn't that strenuous, and actually really cool. we had to cross over several bridges, under which there would be families washing their clothes and collecting water. pretty cool.
*the waterfall is gorgeous, and according to the welcome sign is the tallest waterfall in west africa. we all braved the semi-cold waters and got in, and a bunch of us even went to the base of the falls, right where the water actually hits the bottom. it was came down SO hard and was SO loud, but really cool. now just pray none of us get river-blindness, JUST KIDDING. our RAs assured us it is safe for foreigners to swim in the water, and that everyone in prior semesters had done it and been just fine. somewhere, someone has a picture of us actually in the water.
wli falls...the water looks disgusting in this picture, but i assure you it wasn't this bad.
marika, me, gillian and marykate
*this morning all of solomon's decided to make brunch, complete with french toast, pancakes, eggs, and fruit salad. everyone pitched in, and i was the designated pancake-maker. when gillian's mom was here she bought us bisquick...a godsend. it was a great way to spend our last sunday as a complete house. two girls leave on wednesday, gillian, helene and i leave on friday, and then others leave next saturday and sunday. slowly the nyu in ghana program is coming to a close for the semester, and we are all getting really nostalgic and sad. this departure is bittersweet, but more on that later...
*for now, i plan on making the most of my final five days here. today i've decided to stay in my pajamas all day, until gillian and i head to the golden tulip for dinner tonight. we're treating ourselves, because, really, why not? maybe i'll get some organizing/"packing" done today, but let's be honest...i doubt much will get done.
*also, for those interested in the whole development discussion (i've shared some of my thoughts in earlier blogs), i'm reading a new book called dead aid by dambisa moyo, a zambian woman who was educated at harvard and oxford. she's worked for the world bank for many years, and argues that all foreign aid must be removed from africa before africa can get back on its own feet and actually develop. i don't know what her new solution/propositions are (i haven't read that far) but it's a compelling argument, especially since it's being made by an african. what i've read so far is very good, and i'd recommend it to anyone who is interested in another take on the issue/dialogue of development.
*anyway, that's all for now...i suppose i'll go get to that "packing". happy sunday my family and friends!
*love love love
*i didn't intend for this picture to turn out the way it did, but it's really cool!
*ahh! i can't believe we've almost concluded our final weekend in ghana. this time next week i'll be resting comfortably in jon's awesome apartment, followed by visiting my cousin in brooklyn and having a much needed dinner with charlie. can't believe it. there are so many things i want to say and blog about, so many reflections, etc. perhaps soon there will be a blog with those types of sentiments, but for now, i'll just update you on what we did this weekend!
*friday i spent writing my final paper of the semester! it's good to have that over with, and now i just need to focus on my tests that are on thursday and friday. the day was spent doing nothing, really, and we went to bed early because we had an early morning saturday.
*saturday started at 4:30 am, because nyu in ghana loves leave for their field trips as early as humanly possible. anyway, the bus picked us up at 5 to go to WLI FALLS, pronounced wee-lee falls. the four hour bus ride proved well worth it, as we we got there around 10 or so. we had to hike for 45 minutes to the actual falls, but it wasn't that strenuous, and actually really cool. we had to cross over several bridges, under which there would be families washing their clothes and collecting water. pretty cool.
*the waterfall is gorgeous, and according to the welcome sign is the tallest waterfall in west africa. we all braved the semi-cold waters and got in, and a bunch of us even went to the base of the falls, right where the water actually hits the bottom. it was came down SO hard and was SO loud, but really cool. now just pray none of us get river-blindness, JUST KIDDING. our RAs assured us it is safe for foreigners to swim in the water, and that everyone in prior semesters had done it and been just fine. somewhere, someone has a picture of us actually in the water.
wli falls...the water looks disgusting in this picture, but i assure you it wasn't this bad.
marika, me, gillian and marykate*this morning all of solomon's decided to make brunch, complete with french toast, pancakes, eggs, and fruit salad. everyone pitched in, and i was the designated pancake-maker. when gillian's mom was here she bought us bisquick...a godsend. it was a great way to spend our last sunday as a complete house. two girls leave on wednesday, gillian, helene and i leave on friday, and then others leave next saturday and sunday. slowly the nyu in ghana program is coming to a close for the semester, and we are all getting really nostalgic and sad. this departure is bittersweet, but more on that later...
*for now, i plan on making the most of my final five days here. today i've decided to stay in my pajamas all day, until gillian and i head to the golden tulip for dinner tonight. we're treating ourselves, because, really, why not? maybe i'll get some organizing/"packing" done today, but let's be honest...i doubt much will get done.
*also, for those interested in the whole development discussion (i've shared some of my thoughts in earlier blogs), i'm reading a new book called dead aid by dambisa moyo, a zambian woman who was educated at harvard and oxford. she's worked for the world bank for many years, and argues that all foreign aid must be removed from africa before africa can get back on its own feet and actually develop. i don't know what her new solution/propositions are (i haven't read that far) but it's a compelling argument, especially since it's being made by an african. what i've read so far is very good, and i'd recommend it to anyone who is interested in another take on the issue/dialogue of development.
*anyway, that's all for now...i suppose i'll go get to that "packing". happy sunday my family and friends!
*love love love
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